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Volume 6 Issue 2

May 2002

MEANDERINGS

You know, sometimes you just have to ask! In the last issue, I noted, "Some folks wonder why we don't just put paddling news on the web or send newsletters out via email. If you have web experience and want to do that for us, contact Robin."

New subscriber, Paul Cartwright, responded immediately and very generously offered to develop a web site for us! Thanks, Paul!! It's up and running at::

Check out our new web site! http://www.willinet.net/~pcart

So, add it to your list of favorite sites and, if you have news or a trip idea, or changes to a trip schedule, let Paul or me know and we'll update the site!

Be careful out there!
Robin Fortney, Editor

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MARK YOUR CALENDAR

Tuesdays at Grays Lake
May through October

Thanks to Bob Johansen, we can once again host a regular paddling event at Grays Lake. Paddle with us on Tuesday evenings at Grays Lake Park in Des Moines from 6 to 8 p.m. Grays Lake is located on Fleur Drive across from Waterworks Park in Des Moines. Bring your own canoe or kayak and PFD. Make new paddling friends, try out a new boat or learn some new paddling skills. You may put in at the boat ramp or the swimming beach.

Bob reports, "John and I were out on Gray's Lake the first evening and had an enjoyable time. Steve Parrish is planning on coming out on Tuesdays when he can make it, and I will do the same. Hope to see you there."

Robin reports, "There were four of us on the lake on May 14. John noted that he will be heading up to the Boundary Waters in a couple of weeks. Nate paddled his white water boat, and he rode the murky wave where storm water entered the lake. He reports that he is proceeding with an exploration of Iowa's best streams for his upcoming new book. Lonnie has purchased a sit-on-top kayak and he is enjoying exploring local rivers.

The park is a busy place these days. Looks like the park pavilion is nearly finished. I always enjoy doing the slalom around the bridge pilings."

Little Sioux River and Cheever Lake
June 1-2, 2002

John Pearson will lead a canoe trip to three state preserves in the vicinity of Spirit Lake in northwest Iowa during the weekend of June 1-2. Saturday, June 1 will feature a float trip on the Little Sioux River (west of Spirit Lake) to see Cayler Prairie and Freda Haffner Kettlehole. On Sunday, June 2, we will explore Cheever Lake south of Estherville (east of Spirit Lake). Paddlers are invited to come to either of both of these trips. I plan on driving to Milford (south of Spirit Lake) on the evening of Friday, May 31 and camping in Horseshoe Bend County Park (the endpoint of the river float trip on Saturday). To find Horseshoe Bend County Park, drive south 1 mile from the south edge of Milford on Highway 71 and then go west on 240th Street for 2.5 miles to the park.

For more information, contact John at:
Office email
john.pearson@dnr.state.ia.us; phone 515/281-3891
Home email john.pearson@mymailstation.com; phone 515/961-3053

Iowa River Canoe Races
June 8

On Saturday, June 8, there will be two canoe races on the Iowa River in Hardin County beginning at the Alden dam and ending in Iowa Falls. The Scenic City Boat Club is sponsoring the event. This two-class event will be a fund-raiser to help with expenses at the Boat Club as well as provide a bit of friendly competition.

The first race will begin at 10:00. It is intended for corporate sponsors and the $50 per boat entry fee includes two lunches at the BoatClub. A traveling trophy will be awarded to the winning boat.

The second race will be more leisurely, departing the Alden dam at 11:30. The entry fee per boat in this event is $10.

To enter, send your name, phone number, and which class you would like to enter along with your entry fee to:
Scenic City Empress Boat Club
1113 Union Street
Iowa Falls, IA 50126

For more information, call the Boat Club at 641-648-9517.

Current River, Missouri
July 13 - 16

Canoe down a crystal clear river in the beautiful Ozark region. Float past incredible rock bluffs and deep blue springs on an overnight trip down the Current River in Southern Missouri. Along the way, we'll visit St. James Winery and sample their wonderful selection of wines. We will also stop at beautiful Meramec Springs State Park, which is home to an incredible natural spring and the first iron mill in Missouri. Late Saturday afternoon, we'll arrive at Round Springs Campground and set up camp. On Sunday morning, we'll begin our adventure down the Current River. We will camp along the river Sunday night and continue downstream Monday arriving back at Round Springs.

Participants need to complete a PCCB canoe class or be an experienced canoeist. Participants will need to provide personal items, camping gear, and money for meals while traveling.

Fee: $200; includes transportation, canoes, and most meals. Departure from Jester Park at 7:00 a.m. on Saturday, July 13, and return by 5:00 p.m. on Tuesday, July 16. Minimum age is 18. Registration deadline is June 28.

To register or obtain more information, contact Patrice Petersen-Keys, Environmental Education Coordinator with Polk County Conservation Board, 515-323-5359.

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NEW BOAT RAMP

Several paddlers report that there is a new boat ramp on the Raccoon River at Water Works Park. What a great addition - thanks Des Moines Water Works!

This ramp provides a nice exit for a float trip from Walnut Woods Park down to Water Works Park.

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WATER TRAIL NEWS

Iowa Water Trail Association Notes
By Gerry Rowland

I attended a meeting of the Van Buren County trails council in Keosauqua on 4/27/02. Dave Thompson from the National Park Service did a nice job presenting various options to the group.

Ron Blair from Jefferson County Trails Council was at the meeting. Jefferson County has a network of trails and is working toward water trails on several rivers. For a 360-degree view of some of their trails, see www.jeffersoncountytrails.org.

Unifying and Promoting Iowa's Waterways
Ames Tribune Editorial
4/30/02

"Iowa's waterways are one such overlooked resource. Much more can be done to promote their use."

Iowa-a nice place to live, but you wouldn't want to visit there. That's the assessment of a social policy maker from Des Moines in response to a recent study of how well states take care of people.

That's about as backhanded as it comes. Yes, Iowa is a great place to live. Most people who do will tell you that. And it's not just social services that make this a happy home. Small towns, solid families, good schools-these are the things that make Iowa fertile ground for growing people, along with corn and beans.

But when it comes to tourism, Iowa hides its light under a bushel. And by failing to draw attention to its abundant natural resources, it runs the risk of ignoring them all together.

Iowa's waterways are one such overlooked resource. Much more can be done to promote their use.

On Saturday, a group of kayakers from Iowa State University explored a possibility. Onion Creek, a tiny trickle into Squaw Creek from the west, swelled to floatable proportions due to last week's rains, allowing a rare opportunity to plumb hidden corners in Story County.

Spring wildflowers, limestone outcroppings, and a few playful riffles greeted the paddlers. Such a view is not typical of Iowa-on the water is one of the few places in this flat state where you can feel "down in", immersed in the landscape.

The creek also illustrates the barriers to promoting Iowa's rivers. It is crossed in many spots by downed trees, as well as barbed wire.

Iowa's landowner rights and public right of way are competing values that must be addressed everywhere access to waterways is made. And a couple of rotting animal carcasses, not to mention the rich brown hue of the water, told of how Iowa's rivers are allowed to carry away the state's primary capital-it's fertility.

But Onion Creek is a micro-attraction. It is not suitable most of the time for supporting recreation. It serves only as an example. For real potential, the Skunk River, the Boone, and the Des Moines are the kind of rivers that carry much more appeal.

There are efforts afoot. The Iowa Water Trail Association is a loose coalition of people across the state interested in promoting canoe trails and increased use of Iowa's waterways. Better access points and better awareness are primary thrusts for building that resource.

Funding for access and improvements can be available through Iowa's Federal Recreational Trails Program grants. Water trails are eligible for funding through the trails program and thus they are included in the Iowa Trails 2000 plan. Federal funds will pay up to 80 percent of eligible expenses for projects sponsored by public agencies.

The Des Moines River is maybe the most high-profile waterway in the state, and would be a great boost for establishing a statewide water trail network. There's about 400 miles of river that could provide recreation for Iowans and non-Iowans, through just about every aspect of Iowa's geography, including its largest city.

What's needed is improved access, restrooms, boat ramps above and below dams and portage routes to connect them, brochures, and better visibility.

An Iowa water trail logo has been developed to help unify the effort. The first signs are being made now for the Skunk River in Story County, where County Conservation has established several developed access points. The logo and sign can be adapted for water trails across the state. Watch for signs this summer.

Onion Creek may never be such an attraction. It is a tiny feeder stream for the rivers that can support recreation. But the awareness built by use of these waterways can help even tributaries remain clean and valuable.

And then maybe a few more folks will come for a visit.

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NOTES FROM THE TAKE-OUT

Gerry Rowland: The cleanup along Squaw Creek in Ames this Saturday morning was very satisfying. There were about 10 people in the area working in the rain. This was part of a citywide cleanup. We got a lot of trash out of the creek and the drainage ditch that runs into it. Thanks for inviting us, Dave Kraemer (editor, Ames Tribune) and the Skunk River Navy.

I got to see the Skunk River Water Trail Sign, and it looks great with the water trail logo developed by Polk and Dallas County Conservation Boards. I've asked Dave Kraemer to do one that says Des Moines River Water Trail. A 12 by 18-inch sign is about $22.00, less in quantity.

I did get out on the West Fork of the Des Moines, from just below Estherville down to Emmetsburg, last Saturday. There's finally enough water for a good fast trip, and I did the 17 miles in under 6 hours, with a couple of stops to enjoy the cottonwood groves.

I hope you all enjoy some time on a river this spring.

Bob Brammer: Look out for "sweepers"! A sweeper on a river is where the current rushes under a tree stretched out from the shore have to avoid being caught, turned sideways and then rolled over. I think sweepers are the paddlers' main threat, even more than big rocks. Usually your boat can more or less safely follow wherever water goes, unless current goes right under a sweeper that is too low for your boat. On the first canoe float trip I ever was on, with Dad and brother Dick on the Upper Iowa from Kendalville to Bluffton, our trip partners, the Kapfer boys and their dad, launched just ahead of us and ran into a sweeper within fifty yards, got sideways, and immediately rolled under. No harm done in that two-foot-deep water, but it was a lesson never to be forgotten.

Rick Dietz: Anyone interested in experimenting with a roll will want to visit this site.

Juan Gamboa: I am glad that you had a chance to go to Yucatan. It is my homeland and I was there about a month ago on cruise starting at Cape Canaveral in Florida. We had a day of kayaking in Key West, a day of snorkeling in Belize, and a day in Cozumel where I ran away from the ship and spent a day and a half with my parents in Merida. I returned to the ship in Progreso for the trip back to Florida.

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TRIP REPORTS

Please send highlights of your trip to the Newsletter Editor as soon as possible after your event so we can all enjoy hearing about your adventures!

Editor's Comment: I thought it might be useful to bring to your attention a trip announcement that illustrates how important it is to let a trip coordinator know you plan to participate. Sometimes plans change, typically due to bad weather or river flow fluctuations. The trip coordinator may choose at the last minute to make changes to the trip itinerary, and if he or she knows you are coming, they can let you know about the new plans. This announcement by Mike Smith shows what decisions may be made as the trip day approaches:

Here's the update for what was to be a Boone River cleanup on Saturday May 11. No cleanup because flows are too high. Trip is changed to the Middle Raccoon.

We will meet at 9:00 A.M. at the Caseys station in the shadow of the grain elevator in the southeast part of Redfield. We will leave Casey's no later than 9:15 A.M., possibly dropping a vehicle at our take-out point, or proceeding directly to our launch point northwest of Linden. For those who would rather join us at the launch point, it is the Middle Raccoon Access.

From the intersection of Dallas County P-30 (the main street in Linden) and Dallas County F-51 (immediately north of the Raccoon Valley bike trail crossing of P-30), go west 11/2 miles to a "T" intersection; curve right (north) at the "T". The road will curve left (west) in 1/4 mile. Then follow the road straight west another mile to the river. The access is on the north side of the road and east side of the river. Our take-out point will be the new boat ramp approximately 11/2 miles south of Linden.

Water level on the Middle Raccoon is near ideal today. BUT, rain is forecasted tonight and tomorrow. Be prepared to canoe in the rain AND a head wind. Be prepared to capsize if you are inexperienced as there are some riffles that can dump inexperienced canoeists in open canoes.

This is a scenic and fun stretch of river! The trip will be short due to the forecasted rain and wind. We should launch no later than 10:00 and be at our take-out no later than 2:00, possibly sooner. For more info or update call me (Mike Smith) at Saturday morning before 8:00 A.M. at home: 515-246-9870.

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DES MOINES RIVER 1

By Gerry Rowland

I took my new (ok, slightly used) GMC Jimmy out for a spin on the river on 12/14/01. Where the Mazda van was really pushing it, the Jimmy is right at home. The tow car was barely felt as I drove along, so my comfort level getting to and from the river was much enhanced. I chose a stretch that starts about 10 miles north of Saylorville (near Madrid) which is one of the most isolated and remote areas of the river, being underwater for about 8 months of the year. It is also challenging because there's not a lot of current and the river meanders in and out of wetlands and along high sandstone bluffs.

The downstream point is at a county park, Jester Park. The road to the boat ramp is new, and the signage is great. I noted fire pits right near the river, great for overnighters. I left the Saturn there, but noted wind and waves would be contrary and challenging. On to Madrid where I put in at about 11:30. Wind and waves were variable, and I made my way around islands and hugged the shore to stay in calmer water, but I averaged about 2 mph. It was a hard paddle, maybe the hardest I've done. For 6 hours I was fighting wind and waves. When I paused for even a few seconds, I was blown upstream. I took one 10 minute break, otherwise continuous hard paddling. As I came into the lake just at sunset, the big rollers started breaking over my bow, so I got in close to shore and stayed there until I made it to the boat ramp.

It was a glorious day. Coming into the lake, three bald eagles circled me and flew along. To have open water in the middle of December is wonderful. A full trip along a stretch that has been more that I wanted to tackle is just the best. My new super light paddles were just the thing for this kind of challenge. The GPS is my constant companion, and I keep it tucked into the pocket of the new life vest. All in all, it's what I live for.

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DES MOINES RIVER 2

By Gerry Rowland

The river was frozen in Des Moines and north past Sycamore Access on 12/29/01. There were several dozen eagles by open water just south of the Saylorville Dam. No New Year's paddling, but super eagle watching at Cottonwood Park. As of Jan. 5, 2002, the river was open from Sycamore north. I had a great paddle with 20-30 eagles in the air, hundreds of geese overhead, and the clear cold water to paddle and walk in.

The water was open at SE 14th Street in Des Moines on 1/17/02. During a brief paddle, I saw that the levee was being repaired, with fresh new rock along the shore. The water was clear, and the sunlight danced on the sandy river bottom like golden chain link.

I had a super paddle from SE 14th St. to Yellow Banks Park on 1/19/02. There were hundreds of geese and ducks along the way, and a dozen eagles flew near their nest by the old power plant.

Sunday, 2/3/02, was a gorgeous day for a run from Sycamore (NW66th in Johnston) to Prospect Park in Des Moines. The winter light reflected from the snow was just dazzling. I enjoyed the ripples of golden light on the sandy mini-dunes of the river bottom in the cold, clear winter water.

Saturday, 3/16/02, was perfect for paddling the 6-mile stretch from Runnells Bridge to Bennington Access. The water was low, but there was no ice in the river. I had a band of 6 geese with me all the way, and several eagles were soaring high overhead with white heads and tails still visible. It took 2.5 hours to paddle, going non-stop against a moderate wind, so I was sore the next day. This was the first outing with the mapping GPS and it was cool to have waypoints every mile and to see where I was in relation to the river.

I have spent several days driving along the river with the new mapping GPS. I discovered that the old GPS was several hundred feet off, so during the first two weeks in March I visited 60 boat ramps from Estherville to Keokuk. New coordinates are posted at http://showcase.netins.net/web/gazebo/rivertrail.htm.

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DES MOINES RIVER ACCESS CLEANUP

By Gerry Rowland

Thanks to all who joined me at the Harriet Street boat ramp for a cleanup day on Saturday, 2/23/02. We started at 8:30 AM and went until 11:30. Des Moines Parks and Recreation had bags and trucks as well as staff support. Harriet St. boat ramp is north and east of the Des Moines River Bridge off SE 14th St. in Des Moines. If you are coming from the south, turn right at the bait shop on Harriet St., and go up and over the levee just past the compost piles. If you are coming from the north, turn left onto Harriet St. and do the same. The area looks much better, thanks to our efforts.

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DES MOINES RIVER 3

By Gerry Rowland

Thanks to the Fort Dodge Messenger for a good article on the river and the water trail on 4/7/02.

I was inspired to go north and make the 10-mile run from Bradgate to Rutland on 4/10/02. There was 25 mph wind from the south, but the West Fork was running at 600 cfs and I figured the current would move me along. I found Willow Access in good shape, although the sign is missing. I had forgotten how much of that stretch is high wooded bluffs, so I could hear the wind thundering through the trees, but I was sheltered most of the way. A band of geese stayed with me, and waded out into the river to show me the shallow areas to avoid. The highlight of the day was spotting a river otter running along the river bank with water dripping off his little snout, then popping into a spot in the rip rap.

I made the run in about 3 hours. I stopped under the wooden bridge off 205th St. and discovered that the bridge is covered with gravel when a tractor rumbled overhead and gravel came down through the wooden deck.

The take-out at Rutland went fine and Rose Mill Park just keeps getting better. I did note graffiti on the pump house, and the lack of warning signs for the dam.

For those who have a Garmin GPS, a data cable and Mapsource, I have put my way points (about 1 per mile) in a file at: http://showcase.netins.net/web/gazebo/gps.html.

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RED ROCK RESERVOIR

Steve Parrish: The trip to Red Rock Lake on May 4 was great. Bob J, Mark M, and Juan G showed up, plus Steve and Kathy, a couple new to the group. It was fun to feel like an expert with them. I took them through the floating cave and showed them the swallow nests in the cliffs, and they thought I knew what I was doing! We hit some healthy winds on the way back, so they got to try their Daggers out in whitecaps for the first time.

Juan Gamboa: It was a very nice day and we had favorable winds most of the time, though for a while it was kind of choppy with some white caps (the more wavy, the more I like it). Bob let Steve try his new kayak, a very nice slim kayak, and I let Steve and Kathy try mine. The trip was short enough that I didn't get too tired since it was my first trip of the year. I tried my latest kayak acquisition - wouldn't you guess - another sit-on-top, but this one is 15 feet long and thank goodness has a rudder. It is the first time I tried a rudder, and it is very nice. Without the rudder I have to paddle a lot more with my right arm, but with the rudder I can exercise both arms more evenly.

Bob Johansen: The outing on Red Rock was perfect. A total of six participants took part, starting out at 10:00 AM and back by 2:00 PM. We had a nice west breeze to push us east and Steve showed us a cave that everyone had to maneuver through, of course. The wind had shifted to the south by the time we were towards the eastern part of the lake, where we stopped for a shore lunch. The return was fun, but the last third was into a stiff wind and choppy waters. A nice challenge but everyone came through OK. There were two other kayakers out there, one in a strip-built (weight of only 35 lbs.!!) and another in a Current Design. Some were also some motorboats, but they were far enough away to not bother us.

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MIDDLE RACCOON RIVER

Mike Smith: Four of us went. It was good. Rain dissipated as we floated. Of course, the other three are unbalanced human beings.

Robin Fortney: You can certainly expand your horizons when you are weather proof. Mike had planned a cleanup trip on the Boone for May 11, but the details changed when rain brought high water to that stream. He then led us like sheep to slaughter to the Middle Raccoon, promising us a short trip. It was raining and there was lightning when I arrived at the Redfield Casey's.

I had invited a couple of friends to join us. Jeremy and Mariana showed up at the Casey's store, but they didn't have adequate rain gear and decided, quite intelligently, to bail. Nate arrived next with his new kayak, and then Mike came, arriving late due to the many calls from folks who had decided to stay home. We all proceeded to the put-in west of Linden where Jerry was awaiting us. Jeremy and Mariana generously agreed to ferry a car to the take-out, and the remaining foursome took to the water.

The rain was light and eventually stopped. The lightning moved on, and the breeze was light, so the day was actually not bad. Spring flowers were blooming and birds were singing. I saw a green heron on the Middle Raccoon for the first time. The water level was up, burying rocks and creating some wonderful waves to play in. We stopped on a big sand bar for lunch. I got a little chilled from the breeze, but Mike provided a big slice of pumpkin pie for each of us, and that made the day seem tolerable! The winds began to pick up as did the rain as we approached the boat ramp below Big Bend, so we were grateful that Mike a planned a short trip.

A hot shower never felt as good as it did later that afternoon!

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WHITEWATER IOWA 1

By Steve Weliver

Great News! The engineer's report is back. Two whitewater features were proposed - both include a single weir which will provide 2 to 3 wave/holes at water levels up to ~4500 cfs. This means that the park will be playable for the majority of the year. One design extends completely across the river and the other only half-way.

Flow studies with and without the in-stream improvements indicated it will have no perceptable effects on the 10 and 100-year floods. What they did indicate was that the improvements would dissipate some of the energy in the river that could potentially cause detrimental scour to bridge piers and bank erosion. Other benefits would be to improve fish habitat by creating structure and deeper pools and slowing the current.

To quote from the report..."The weir is located in a region where the Cedar River has undergone extensive Flood Control Measures, which have channeled and straightened the river. The river now flows fast and uninterrupted. The aquatic environment has been sterilized in this region."

Cedar Falls is preparing the Joint Application to the DNR. Now it's up to the DNR for approval.

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WHITEWATER IOWA 2

By Nate Hoogeveen

About a dozen paddlers from Central Iowa, including ISU Canoe and Kayak Club and Central Iowa Paddlers, ventured up to Cedar Falls on April 7 for some whitewater playboating with Steve Weliver and the Prairie Rapids Riders.

The air temperature didn't get much above 50, and the water temperature wasn't any warmer than that. Fortunately, the PRRs kept a fire burning and had plenty of hot chocolate and coffee to keep everyone warm. Water levels were just right to maintain some nice waves and a hole at the site of a demolished dam.

The PRR's have plans to create a whitewater course above this feature, which could make Cedar Falls an even better whitewater-paddling destination.

Plenty of "experts" were on hand to help novices and to perform rescues. It was a learning trip, and many paddlers reported that their boat-handling skills improved. The day ended with a trip to Mainly Lou's in downtown Cedar Falls, for food and libations.

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SKUNK RIVER

By Bob Modersohn

I drove up to Ames on Saturday, May 18, and paddled a stretch of the Skunk with the Story County boys. It was a neat day to be on the river. There must have been nearly a dozen of us. One old timer, Paul, flipped his short rec boat right at the launch site.

Later, after I pushed ahead of the pack to get back home, I came across a couple young men in a canoe, not wearing shirts, who had just capsized. I asked if they were sightseeing and they said, no, fishing - until they tipped over. They had only one paddle and THE BOW GUY WAS USING IT. He said he couldn't navigate very well. No, duh! I paddled back up upstream and found their other paddle. Then, after delivering it to them and chatting for a few moments, one of the guys yelled, "Look, there's the beer." A 12-pack of Coors Light, its carton not yet opened, was floating down the middle of the Skunk. I secured that, drained the water, and handed it to them. They were happy as clams.

Check it out:

http://skunkriverpaddlers.tripod.com

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Maintained by: Paul Cartwright Modified: Monday December 02 2002 at 8:49pm